LIVING IN TRASTEVRE, ROME

Rabbit,

Worst restaurant in Rome

Eija, Jyrki and I set off to see the factory and eat at a recommended restaurant near there.  The restaurant was closed so we picked one at random.  Jyrki said at the time, "This is the worst food I have ever tasted".  The picture is of the rabbit I ordered looks decent enough but was mostly bones.  Fortunately, we all have a sense of humor and a sense of adventure.  The name of the restaurant is , Trattoria Zampagna, via Ostiense 179, Roma.

Centrale Montemartini on Via Ostiense 106 is the name and address of the museum in Rome's first power station, that I mentioned in an earlier blog.

Old factory

This is an old electric factory that was out of commission shortly after it was finished.  Instead of demolishing it, they put sculptures that had been recently found under Trastevere and other places in Rome.  They also kept the machines, so the statues and busts are interspersed among the machines.  Since they were found recently, they did not have fig leaves on them, which I learned had been put on the ones in the Vatican museum.  The hand and arm are enormous...a colossus. 

Last day

It has been surprising to me, that because I shop everyday for food and go to the cafe,  I felt sadness saying goodbye to my grocer and my cafe.  Back home in Michigan, going to the grocery store and Target is a chore; I go as little as possible and I can see why.  Although I've had a knack for picking the worst restaurants here, I truly will miss the bread and the fast food pizza and sandwich shops, fresh fruit and vegetables and coffee.  Mostly I will miss the people I have met here.

In my wanderings today, I walked into a fabric shop and had one of those "aha" moments.  It is like wandering into a used book store like KINGS in Detroit, floor to ceiling bolts of beautiful wools, silks and lace in a very old building with lumpy floors that has been there from the beginning of time.  All these fabrics are made in Italy and that is why Italian clothing is so beautiful.  The name of the store is BASSETTI TESSUTI on Corso Vittorio Emanuele, 73.  My computer translation says it means "woven sideburns", but my computer sometimes translates very strangely.  Too bad I don't sew anymore.

I will post the rest of my pictures when I get home.  Caio.

My daily cafe

These are the two owners of the cafe I visit everyday.  It is called Cafe Good in Trastevere, just down the alley from my apartment.  Both men are very gracious and are appreciative of any new Italian I try to use.  I will miss this place.

Contemporary art show

On my way home yesterday, I wandered into a contemporary art exibition  that is in several building all over Rome. Hundreds of artists I have only heard of, but never had the opportunity to see their work, were represented by the gallery owners who represent their work.  One of my very favorites is the by photographer Vanessa Beecroft, who makes pictures that always touch me.  This is one of her photos of the black madonna.  The gallery owner offered what she considered a very good price on a smaller picture for only 15,000 euros.  I think I will have to be satisfied with my memory of it and this copy.

Piazzo di Fiori Market

Leather artist

This is Elisa Nepi, making a beautiful red belt for me.  She designs all of her work and creates purses that are unusual and well made.  Worth a trip to: Artiglanoato in cuilo, via del Chavari 39, 00186, Roma, Italy, Tel.-fax 06-68307297.  It is near Piazza di fiori.  My belt was only 27 euros.

Classmates

Finnish school and embassy

Ruins near the Colloseum

Choir in Sistine chapel

View from the top

Mosaic

Thursday

It has been a busy week.  Several of us went out to dinner at a small restaurant in Trastevere called Trattoria de "Gli Amici".  From what I know of Italian, gli amici, means friends.  My pronunciation is very, very bad but I am starting to understand Italian, but even if I memorized it at home no one could understand me here.  

Restaurants do not serve until after 7:30 at night and I just wonder when the Italians sleep, surely not all of them take a nap from 12 to 3 PM.  

Today Eija her husband and I walked up one of the seven roman hills here in Trastevere to the school of Finland, beautifully restored.  As is usual for most cities, the wealthy built higher up than the poor people.  The air is better but I suspect it was because of the Tiber overflowing and it was before plumbing.  It is the same in Montreal, Canada.  

We  ate at a cafe near the school and I had shrimp and radiccio with lemon.  Then off to school to learn the different types of articles in Italian.  My brain is having  trouble absorbing any more in my class, perhaps it is best that tomorrow is my last day.

Oh, my haircut experience.  The salon very small and the woman who did my hair massaged my head for a full ten minutes, then wrapped my head in a warm towel and put me under some sort of heat machine.  So relaxing and I thought she did a very good job.  It is more expensive over here, fifty euros.

I bought a week bus and tram pass, so I can zip around as fast as possible for the remainder of my stay.

St Peter's Rome

This picture was taken after I climbed at least 500 narrow steps up to the dome of St. Peter's. The handrails along the stairway felt as if they had never been cleaned and the rope for the spiral stairway was slick with I don't know what. I am not usually finicky about germs, but this experience had me holding my hands out like a surgeon before I got home to wash them. Toward the top, when the wall starts to go in, you have to lean against it to fit in. 

Walking outside the cupola was a panoramic view of Rome, it looks a little polluted from that height unfortunately. 

The view from above inside the cupola was unbelievable, the basilica is immense.  All along the wall, inside the dome, were mosaics that I could touch, study and photograph.  

In the basilica my pictures do not show the opulence of the place but I did try.  In order not to use a flash, I would have to be very still, so I finally sat on the floor and did not breathe - like when one gets an x-ray.  The guard looked with disapproval and asked me to stand as someone from the hierarchy was passing by.

Despite all the beauty, it is some of the best art work I've seen here,  I felt saddened by all the money that when into it when there was and is so much poverty.

I am getting my haircut tomorrow, let's see how the Roman's do it.   

After wandering around lost on Saturday, the Ponte Sisto bridge was such a welcome sight...

St. Clemente

On Saturday I set out for St. Clemente church to see three layers of history.  The top church above, the one under an earlier christian church and finally the Roman temple of Mithras.  My interest was in finding the Roman ruins.  Although dark and damp, which made it hard to imagine what it would have looked like in sunlight, I found it to be the most interesting of the three.  The rooms were very small and there was still a stream within for water.  The priest who began excavating in the 1940' or 50's was buried in the second level and his flat tombstone wobbled when I walked across it, a twilight zone sort of experience. Later, I had lunch next to a father and daughter traveling through Europe before the daughter begins her studies in Austria.  The daughter, Maria, has a blog which has more detail and insights about Rome. Maria's blog address is http://maria.thefortytwo.net.  Going and coming home, I got lost and anyone who has traveled understands that what seems like a simple jaunt, never is, in a strange city.

You know how we say IKEA , in Finland and probably Sweden it is pronounced  ick'ee ah.

I did go to the Vatican yesterday and I do have pictures but have to go to school.  Will try to post tonight.